Many people wonder how it can be possible that a t-shirt can be so cheap. Child labor or inhumanity often come to mind, but it is more than that. We got used to buy clothing when its cheap or on sale. But do we think about the consequences? An official article stated that if all Dutch people would buy three pieces less a year, it will save about 143 million pollutive kilometers, which is three times earth’s perimeter. Today’s fashion industry relies on globalized, mass production where garments are transformed from the design table to the retail floor in a few weeks. Where retailers selling the latest fashion trends at very low prices and consumers are easily swayed to purchase more than they need. But this fast fashion, where ‘fast’ describes the economic speed driven side of today’s fashion industry, is not good for the health of people and environment. The central question then becomes; How might the social system of fashion become sustainable?
A countermovement started a few years ago by Kate Fletcher, Professor of Sustainability, Design, Fashion at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion in London, which she called Slow fashion. Slow fashion is not a typical seasonal trend it is an sustainable movement that is steadily gaining momentum and will be a continuing trend. Slow fashion is about designing, producing, consuming and living better. Slow is in this context not the opposite of fast. It is an other approximation in which all the actors in the design system are more aware of the impacts of products on workers, communities and ecosystems. Fletcher called ‘balance’ the heart of the idea. It is a vision for the fashion industry based on ecological integrity and social equality. Fletcher in her book sustainable fashion and textiles says;
‘Slow fashion is about combining ideas about a sense of nature’s time (of regenerating cycles and evolution), culture’s time (of the value of traditions and wisdom), as well as the more common timeframes of fashion and commerce. Its emphasis is on quality (of environment, society, working conditions, business, product, etc.).’
Understanding the social system around fashion can help reveal the consequences of the fashion Industry. The movement came up with ten values which have the potential to unite the sustainable fashion movement and can be used by the fashion industry as a part of the future vision of succes;
- Seeing the bigger picture; recognize that all actions are interconnected within larger ecological and social systems.
- Slowing down consumption; reducing raw material use by decreasing new fashion production allows ecosystems to regenerate.
- Diversity; maintain ecological, social and cultural diversity.
- Respecting people; participate in fair trade initiatives, establishing cooperatives, and employing codes of conduct can help to secure the fair treatment of fashion workers.
- Acknowledging human needs; utilizing more ethical and humane manufacturing and production processes, slow fashion respects and acknowledges human needs across the globe.
- Building relationships; collaboration fosters trusting and lasting relationships that will create a stronger movement.
- Resourcefulness; focus on using locally available materials, resources and human capital whenever possible.
- Maintaining quality beauty and care; Encouraging classic design over passing trends will contribute to the longevity of garments.
- Profitability; Slow Fashion producers need to sustain profits, and increase visibility in the market in order to be competitive.
- Practicing consciousness; making decisions based on personal passions, a connection to others and the environment, and the willingness to act responsibly.
To conclude, it is all about understanding and being aware of the consequences within the fashion Industry. Slow fashion is a sustainable movement with a new vision according sustainable fashion. The ten values can inspire and guide organizations and consumers towards a common goal: creating a sustainable society with fashion.